Showing posts with label Norway. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Norway. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Bergen, Norway: The Leprosy Museum and The Botanical Garden

It's a little embarassing that almost a month later, I'm still finishing up the postings on our Norway trip. And I think the pictures in this posting are going to look more familiar than those in my earlier postings. The reason: my favorite part of my trip to Norway was the plants, many of which grow here. I spent the most time in the back yard of the Leprosy Museum and the back yard of the Natural History Museum. That's a future posting--other people's backyards. I do get into them occasionally, not always by invitation (I'd love to get into some of yours . . .).

Ok, so the Leprosy Museum is quite famous--it's the former site of St. Jorgens Hospital, which was dedicated to the treatment and eradication of leprosy in Norway during the 19th century. Leprosy is also known as Hansen's Disease, named for the Norwegian, Armauer Hansen, who discovered the leprosy bacillus. The museum itself is fascinating and occasionally depressing--some of the patients' incredibly cramped quarters have been left as they were, and the medical instruments and depictions of the patients on display are a little frightening. The part of the museum I liked best? The medicinal garden in the back.

The herb garden behind the Lepramuseet

The herbs--more accurately, the medicinal plants--grew in slightly raised beds set between a small lawn and a walkway. The plants fell over the edges of the bed, providing lots of fragrance as I brushed by them.


Herb garden at the Leprosy Museum


The plants weren't marked, which was both frustrating and a little humbling. I kept thinking, "I know what this is!" But then I couldn't remember . . . (in some cases, still can't).

Of course I recognize coneflower, though I've started to think of it as ornamental, forgetting that it's Echinacea, the root of which was traditionally used as an antibiotic. I don't think I'm telling anyone anything they don't already know, but Echinacea root is sold in capsule form as a very popular means of boosting one's immune system. (The voles in my garden have been going after my coneflowers--maybe they're gearing up for flu season?)

Echinacea

Another wonder herb--allium. This is one of those things that I'll probably be embarrassed by--but I'm not sure exactly what this is. I've read that onions and garlic are among the most beneficial foods we can eat. Almost everything I cook starts with garlic, onion, and red pepper (ok, so maybe not brownies). But I don't grow garlic or onions--this is some kind of garlic, right?

Cool allium

And this next one--I'm pretty sure it's some kind of Eupatorium--I guess they might still be growing Boneset for historical color. There was no flower, so it's pretty hard to identify.


What is this tall herb?

And I loved this flower! The Curmudgeon says it's a Saponaria. I've grown the kind called "Bouncing Bet," which is taller and pinker. This one is gorgeous--I think it might have been a volunteer in their tansy bed.


I love this little flower


And could this be Gunnera? At first I thought Norway must be too cold, but then Bergen has a milder climate than we do in Eastern Virginia. I've never heard that Gunnera has a medicinal use, but this was the more ornamental edge of the garden--or, just as likely, I don't what the medicinal use is . . .


Gunnera?

From the Leprosy Museum, I headed over to the Botanical Gardens--they're behind the Natural History Museum at the University of Bergen. I was there on an unusually sunny day--and like students in Virginia, the students in Bergen were making the most of it.


The Botanical Garden at the University of Bergen

The gardens had a huge collection of Primula, a number of which I'd seen in other gardens. This long border is mostly Primula and ferns.

Primula bed, Botanical Gardens, University of Bergen


This one is Primula vialli . . .



Primula vialli

I couldn't find the tag for the next one. I think it might be Primula sikkimensis--I love the flower:


Another primula--sikkimensis?

This next one is embarassing. I thought I'd included the tag in the frame, but I missed half of it (so I can see c-a-p, maybe -i?)--I haven't been able to find it in my books--the flowers look a little bit like an allium, though the leaves are pretty clearly Primula.

Primula cap . . .

This flower was in a bed of Rudbeckia, and again I couldn't find the label. I love it--is it possible it's Inula?

I think this is inula
This was another flower I loved but couldn't find a tag for--my friend Jackaranda thinks it might be Impatiens balsamina.

Another flower I loved but can't ID
I did run into another tourist in the garden, but he didn't know the names of anything:
Another tourist admiring the garden

I was happy to see that, like me, the Botanical Gardeners occasionally missed a spot (or maybe they just want some things to go to seed?)--I loved these yellow flowers on the ornamental kale (it's kale, right?--I might actually get some if the flowers look like these).


Ornamental cabbage gone to flower

And the sign says this next plant is a cherry belle radish!

The tag says this is a cherry belle radish

I have grown cherry belles, but I never let them go--will they really get this big?

No longer cherry or belle close up

Anyway, the Botanical Gardens were lovely. These are very familiar plants--two of my favorite annuals, marigold and heliotrope--the arrangement falls under the category "why didn't I think of this?"

Heliotrope and marigolds

So I came away from my trip with some ideas for my garden next year--and I have been working in it (one reason, in this cooler weather, that I haven't been posting very regularly). I'll be back to my own flowers soon--after one more post on Europe--on Amsterdam's flower market--coming soon. Adjo, for now.



Saturday, September 6, 2008

Bergen, Norway: Mount Floyen, the Bergenhaus Festning and Lille Lungegardsvan

We've spent the morning waiting for Tropical Storm Hanna. And speaking of depressions:

School has started. Summer is (all but) over. Time in the garden is hard to come by.

So by way of repressing the depressing (and because Hanna is dropping some much needed rain and keeping me inside), I'm going to return to Norway for a little while.

The best view of Bergen (the city we visited, the second largest in Norway) is from the top of Mount Floyen. It's about a 45 minute hike to the summit (at 1050 feet)--but to save energy for the trails at top, I took the Floibanen, a funicular railway with huge windows and a glass roof that affords spectacular views of the city center. This is a view of Vagen Harbor.

View of Vagen Harbor through the clouds


The harbor opens onto the Byfjorden. You can see a cruise ship moored on the north side of the harbor (top right); the Fisketorget (fish market) is at the end, and our hotel is the red building on the south side (to the left). Here's a closer view of the hotel, above the trees in the foreground.



The view of the harbor coming down the Floibanen




The slopes of Mt. Floyen are typical of the forest in the fjords--lots of spruce, pine, aspen, oak, birch, and mountain ash (or rowan). The rowan trees thrive in incredibly rocky conditions; this time of year, they are covered with red berries.


Mountain shrub at top of Mt. Floyen

At the summit of the mountain is a restaurant surrounded by balconies with spectacular views and beautifully landscaped lookout points.


Art outside the cafe


Art on the summit


Potentilla seems to flourish in Bergen's climate--besides roses, it was the most common perennial I saw in the cultivated gardens. In this border alongside the restaurant, it's nestled alongside a sedum and an adorable little yellow flower that I haven't been able to identify--maybe some kind of impatiens? Does anyone recognize it? I love it--and though I haven't had much luck with potentilla, sedum does well here--maybe this yellow flower would grow in Virginia?



Potentilla, sedum, and another small flower

Here's more potentilla in a larger, more sprawling border . . .

Potentilla in the restaurant border


. . . with primula and heathers (mostly erica purpurea, which grows both in the wild and in cultivation) . . .


Primula


and coreopsis very like my "Moonbeam."


Some kind of coreopsis

This border led to the hiking trails through the forest, which were bordered by ferns and wildflowers--I think this is delphinium:



Ferns and native flowers on Mt. Floyen



The forest was gorgeous on its own, especially in the late morning--it was hard to stay on the trail.



Forest on Mt. Floyen


But I still had a lot of Bergen to explore, so after a lovely morning in the woods, I headed back down to the city. This shot is from the top of the funicular and shows where I'm headed:



View from Mount Floyen


The body of water to the right (north) is Vagen Harbor; the lake to the left with the fountain in the center is Lille Lungegardsvan, which is surrounded by gardens and art museums; between them is the theater district and Ole Bulls Plass.

At the north end of the harbor--where the cruise ship was moored--is the Bryggen, which is the site of the first settlement. The facades of these warehouses--some dating from medieval times--make up THE iconic image of Bergen--so wouldn't you know it, I never took a photograph! No flowers, I guess. Anyway, I've provided a link. It's also the most touristy and the most expensive part of Bergen, and a cruise ship had just landed, so we didn't stay there long. But we did visit the Bergenhaus Festning, a (reconstructed) fortress just beyond the Bryggen at the mouth of the harbor, now used as a park.




Nykirk and the Bergenhus Festning courtyard

This courtyard in front of the Rosenkrantztarnet looks out over the harbor--the church tower of the Nykirke is actually on the other side of a very large harbor (as I tell my film students, telephoto lenses collapse distance).


Here's a shot I took a couple of days later of the Nykirke from the other side of the harbor, looking over at the Rosenkrantztarnet (the big building with the turquoise roof):


Nykirke, from the Nordnes peninsula


The other side of the Bergenhaus Festning courtyard opens out to another yard alongside the old officers' quarters.




View into the courtyard


From the harbor, we headed inland a bit. This is Bergen's cathedral, Domkirke. The guidebooks regard it as dull, but I fell in love with this tree in the churchyard.

Tree at Domkirken


More potentilla surrounding tombs from the 17th century:


Potentilla around tomb, Domkirke

And on the street leading away from the Domkirke, maybe the world's smallest buddleia?


World's smallest butterfly bush?


From the Domkirke, we walked over to Lille Lungegardsvan, a lake at the city center. It's flanked by five art museums and a concert hall, as well as some lovely gardens. Here's a rose garden, with Salix and the art museums in the background:



Roses and Salix at Lille Lungegardsvann


And maybe my favorite garden in Bergen--a cosmos garden! (Cosmos grow on the interstate medians in Virginia--but not 10 miles away in my garden--perhaps they need more exhaust? Anyway, I loved these).




White cosmos




Cosmos at Lille Lungegardsvann


A reminder of how close the Atlantic is--seagulls flying over the lake:

Seagulls on the Lille Lungegardsvann

At the northwest end of the garden (heading back to the harbor) is the Design Museum, whose external "exhibitions" are arguably as lovely as the ones inside:



The grounds in front of the West Norway Decorative Art Museum



Here's the facade and another view of the sculpture in front.

Facade of the Vestlandske Kunstindustrimuseum


Immediately to the east of the Design Museum is Ole Bulls Plass, leading through the theater district. A gazebo marks the boundary between it and the lake.


The gazebo at Ole Bull Plass




One of my favorite roses in the bed around the gazebo:


Yellow roses at Ole Bull Plass

And one of Salix's:


Flower girl


And this is Ole Bull, a 19th-century violinist who was Bergen's Frank Sinatra--local history says women would swoon at his concerts. The only disappointment during our trip was that I didn't get to visit his home at Lysoen, where he laid out footpaths through his woods.
Ole Bulls Plass


So these were the sights we (were) meant to see--we caught a couple of others along the way.





These guys are actually pumping beer into a hotel--we would love to have seen what was at the other end of the hose (a pool? a pond? a fraternity?). Here's a picture of the truck, just in case you think we mistranslated:



And we caught this picture on our walk through the theater district, just beyond Ole Bulls Plass. This was some kind of publicity for a play--but I'm not sure this is exactly the kind of photo op they had in mind. Maybe she's smelling the roses?




That's it for now. Hanna's been benevolent--about 24 hours of relatively gentle rain with no loss of power. But I think I'll knock wood and publish just in case.